Sr20det N15 starting issues please help

[2LMILK]

so we have the engine in. I got fuel n spark it cranks but just wont stay on. If you rev it a little it the sounds not nice. Cant explain how but i just dont sound happy. Timing has been set back n forward to find the sweet spot on the dizzy. I now got no idea wat it can be please help.

it runs a bikirom ecu

i bought the car knowing it has a yellow and needs to go over the pits

i originally got the head taken off and the head gasket replaced....due to it leaking.......and told by a mechanic to do so..

then decided while i got half the engine out ill change the clutch and all the coolant hoses behind the block

now the engine is back in and i have this issue

the timing was out by the crank/cams but that is all good now as i have put it back.....

the engine will turn over.....go cough cough.... wanna stay alive n then die....if you give it some throttle it dies straight away

only things i can put it down to is that there aint enought fuel....could this be because the oring that seals the fuel tank when you put the fuel pump into is missis and you can hear a vacuum leak

any help will be great

[RICEY]

You positive the timing is right? Pull the dizzy out and start over to be sure. Also make sure the leads are on in the correct firing order..

As for the fuel tank most caps are designed to allow air into the tank to equalise it with outside pressure so an air leak shouldnt cause fuel starvation.

[Alt_F4]

Bad/old fuel or fuel filter could be the culprits, also unplugged afm could also be the cause. Try them :)

[Milhouse]

dodgy afm prehaps

if it can idle rough but dies when you blip the throttle i'd try clean it, or replace with a spare...

[2LMILK]

it will idle for 2 secs n die.......i got no idea wats wrong now........

so old fuel can stuff it up.....might have to drain the tank

i know 100% the timing is correct at the crank/cams.....the dizzy another story....

we have slowly turned it to make it come to life.....gets to a certain point n sounds half decent

[kurbn]

I advise you to check the lower seals on the injector that mates up against the intake mani... if you have forgoten to re-fit or have a busted seal at the base it will suck past the injector and will start up, run like UTTER shit then just come to a crunching halt, then if you try start it up straight away you will just be on the point of starting and not starting if that makes sense

you will definatly hear a vac leak if thats the case. Like a SSSSSHHHHHHHHHHH noise

apart from that if thats mickey mouse id be steering towards the dizy placement as well

[2LMILK]

no u mention it there is a sssshhhhhh noise near the fpr......

[monk_13]

First thought for me is as Ricey mentioned. Firing order...

An old Gemini I once owned did a similar thing. Took dizzy cap off with leads still on, turned it 180, put it back on and it ran fine.

EDIT: Not even sure if you have a dizzy cap or not, but the firing order thing still makes sense.

EDIT2: just saw you mentioned having a dizzy. Could be 180 out.

[Wezz]

edit: disregard this post

I cant read shit.

[RICEY]

First thought for me is as Ricey mentioned. Firing order...

An old Gemini I once owned did a similar thing. Took dizzy cap off with leads still on, turned it 180, put it back on and it ran fine.

EDIT: Not even sure if you have a dizzy cap or not, but the firing order thing still makes sense.

EDIT2: just saw you mentioned having a dizzy. Could be 180 out.

lol

[2LMILK]

yes there is a dizzy but it has a thing that makes it only go on 1 way

[2LMILK]

wat if the the injectors are fuked maby

[kurbn]

if its not atomising the fuel ie.. trickling its not going to burn properly and pretty much wont run

have you pulled the plugs to check colouring?

[RICEY]

I think you mean atomising

[kurbn]

Yes! ^ thanks couldnt find it in dictionary

[RICEY]

No probs :)

[2LMILK]

mmm....yea the plugs seam fine but i not 100% sure

someone come fix this damm thing 4 me

[kurbn]

how long has the car not been running for?
can you rule the ECU out ie.. you didnt have the problem until you pulled the motor out?
does it backfire/pop through the intake?
did you check your injector seal on the intake for bypassing air?
checked your plug gaps?
I allways thought they had a CAS & coilpacks, not a dizzy?

can you go through a procedure of what happens and noises your hearing?

[2LMILK]

how long has the car not been running for?
oct last year

can you rule the ECU out ie.. you didnt have the problem until you pulled the motor out?
ecu is fine.....power light etc comes on etc

does it backfire/pop through the intake?
there is smoke throught exaust but that might be cause it has de-cat pipe on it.....aint know it was there till last week

did you check your injector seal on the intake for bypassing air?
how.....
checked your plug gaps?
pre gapped
I allways thought they had a CAS & coilpacks, not a dizzy?

can you go through a procedure of what happens and noises your hearing?
turn ignition to on.....get fuel pressure
crank engine over....runs for a few secs...dies

if you rev it a bit will die straight away

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GKBJZ_aA8CI
this all it do......

[RICEY]

To check the injector seals you will need to remove the fuel rail and remove each injector, the seal is the rubber ring on the base of the injector.

That noise is wierd could be big vacuum leak? Is the intake manifold and gasket all good and tight?

[kurbn]

check every join in your intercooler piping

[RRob]

Fuel lines right way around?

[2LMILK]

so bit of an update

omg.....its alive

small minor issues ill sort out but it starts and revs....sometimes to much. not drivable thought

from the begining.
i put the rocker back on. i also swapped the plugs out the old ones. irway 7 or whatever you call them

started up the car, it reved straight to 4K, but i can touch the throttle and it revs fine.
i turn it off.
mess around with the iac screw. retry, revs to 4K, so put screw all way back in and it sits on 3.5K

Now i remember i have the n15 factory ecu in to test
i swap it back to the n14 with bikirom and start the baby up

it just starts and is jumping between 500-1000rpm
i give it some throttle and it coughs and carrys on, ends up reving over 4K and sits there....few secs later it backs of n goes back to the 500-1000rpm continually jumping

no this is strange how the ecu swap did this, tells me there must be maby something else wrong....

Then remember the bov aint in yet cause i was messing with pipework and that bit not fit in yet....so i get it in, connect it up and still no change.

So who has an idea

[DTM-031]

throttle body butterfly might be sticky?

[2LMILK]

nope opens n closes fine......is very clean in side there....

remember the engine was taken out.
coolant hoses under the intake were changed, and the bearings etc were all checked, also a 1.2mm cometic head gasket and arp head studs are in.

[2LMILK]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OhIFPk6v6x0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TrrxGztdNHI

[DESAM8+PANIK]

three things to check

Check your fuel pressure, if you dont have a gauge clamp off the return line from your fuel rail or if you do have a gauge put it in before the fuel rail

and check all your intercooler pipes (throughly)

and maybe failing all that try another air flow meter

good luck

[2LMILK]

what will clamping of the return line do.....

piping is 100%......redid it all

i got a test afm but the plug different

[jaybee]

check your tps

[2LMILK]

Done that. Its reading correctly. .5 v idle to 5v wide open

[DESAM8+PANIK]

clamping the line will increase your fuel pressure, if the fuel pump is shagged then this will give it a bit more to run on at idle, it sounds to me thats where the problem is, its pretty easy just use a pair of vice grips and carefully clamp the return line ....

[2LMILK]

Can I just simply put a fuel pressure gauge in line. I was going to buy one anyways.

[DESAM8+PANIK]

yeah if you like

[2LMILK]

mmm cool...now where to get that:)

also found out i have gearbox oil leak,.......time to investigate