Rotor/Pad fitting, any tips or things to be mindful of?

[Halle Terry]

So hopefully tomorrow or Tuesday after the pits, I'll be installing my new rotors and pads.

I just wanted to get some advice incase there's any little tricks or things I need to do, as far as I'm aware it's just undo the calipers and smash everything on, then go for a drive and bed them in?

I won't be changing the fluid when I do these, as I figure it's best to do that separate in the event that something fucks up, I can narrow it down easier.

Thoughts?

Terry

[DrNick]

Yes thats all :)
But clean brand new rotors with brake clean spray cuz they have oil on them.
And put dynagrip disc brake anti squeal on the back of shims and pads.

[ChrisGTR]

Get some brake cleaner and give your rotors a spray and wipe with it before you fit because brand new rotors have an oil around them to provent them from rusting.
If you don't do this your pads will get contaminated and won't perform as they should.
EDIT: Got beaten :)

Personally I would've done the fluid at the same time as it would be easier in the long run just to do it all in the one hit. Very easy to do and nothing can go wrong if done correctly.

[Halle Terry]

Thanks so far guys, anyone care to give me a quick run down on how to bleed my fluid then?

[ChrisGTR]

Start from the brake that has the longest brake line (the one furthurest away from the brake master cylinder) and work your way around until you get to the last brake which should be the closest to the master cylinder.
I would reccomend changing your disc and pad for the corner your doing before changing the fluid.
Buy a clear brake hose bleeder from supercheap. It sticks onto your brake nipple and then you loosen the brake caliper nipple (about a half a turn will be enough for brake fluid to go out when the brake pedal is squeezed)
Have a drain container under the hose. Grab 2 people to give you a quick hand. One to push the brake pedal, the other to top up the brake fluid from the resevoir BEFORE it gets too low and starts sucking in air and you just watch the clear brake bleed hose until you can see the new fluid start coming through.
Once the new fluid comes through. Tighten back up the brake caliper bleed nipple. Pull the hose off the nipple and move onto the next corner of the car.
Repeat until all 4 corners are done.

[Phyber]

Also user a wire brush to scrape off any rust you can from the hubs to aid in them being mounted flush. I changed my rotors on my XR6T a while back and theres loads of rust under there, can't scrape it all off though but do your best.

Not sure if anti rust sealant or something could be applied to the surface? Guess it gets really hot under heavy braking.

[DISTRBD]

Better to gravity bleed , open bleeder and let flow out :)

[Halle Terry]

Start from the brake that has the longest brake line (the one furthurest away from the brake master cylinder) and work your way around until you get to the last brake which should be the closest to the master cylinder.
I would reccomend changing your disc and pad for the corner your doing before changing the fluid.
Buy a clear brake hose bleeder from supercheap. It sticks onto your brake nipple and then you loosen the brake caliper nipple (about a half a turn will be enough for brake fluid to go out when the brake pedal is squeezed)
Have a drain container under the hose. Grab 2 people to give you a quick hand. One to push the brake pedal, the other to top up the brake fluid from the resevoir BEFORE it gets too low and starts sucking in air and you just watch the clear brake bleed hose until you can see the new fluid start coming through.
Once the new fluid comes through. Tighten back up the brake caliper bleed nipple. Pull the hose off the nipple and move onto the next corner of the car.
Repeat until all 4 corners are done.

Thanks heaps for that man!

Without sounding like a total 'tard, let me recap so we're on the same page.

Undo the braided lines, replace with clear hose,
Undo the nipple on the caliper,
Apply brake pressure to bleed old fluid,
Top up the reservoir with new fluid, until new fluid flows through clear hose,
Repeat with other corners working my way closer to the reservoir each time,

If I get air in the reservoir, what's the easiest way to get rid of it? Keep bleeding and feeding more fluid in?

Once I've drained the first one, shouldn't take much to flow new fluid into the other lines, correct?

[ChrisGTR]

Undo the braided lines, replace with clear hose,
Na no need to touch your brake lines. The clear hose you buy just slips onto the brake caliper nipple and its only real purpose is to stop air from getting sucked back into the caliper when you undo the brake bleed nipple on the caliper.
http://i934.photobucket.com/albums/ad188/GMG_32R/Bleeding.jpg
The rest is correct.

If I get air in the reservoir, what's the easiest way to get rid of it? Keep bleeding and feeding more fluid in?
You shouldn't get air in the reservoir but yes if you do, keep feeding and bleeding fluid until it gets removed.


Once I've drained the first one, shouldn't take much to flow new fluid into the other lines, correct?
Not that i'm aware of, it wouldn't take as much fluid only because the lines gets shorter as you move on.

[Scaf]

Loosen the nipple on the caliper - as said half a turn should be enough.
Place the clear hose over the nipple, with the other end feeding into a container.
Get some one to pump the brakes, while someone else watches and tops up the reservoir.
Pump until you see the new fluid coming through.
Once the new fluid starts coming through get the person to slowly press the pedal to the floor, as he presses and a constant flow of fluid is coming out - tighten up the nipple.

You want to get all the old fluid from the lines, thats the point.
If the resivour sucks in air, you have to keep pumping until you see that pocket of air come through the other end. You will be able to see it through the clear hose.

Brake fluid eats paint so be careful not to touch anything with fluid on your hands, or let the resivour overflow.

Hope this helps.

EDIT: Beaten to a clearer explination anyway...

[Fukushima]

i found a one person bleeding tool at one of the parts stores, repco or something

basically means you can do the whole thing yourself as it has a one way valve

[TJ]

Remember to get on the brake to make sure the rears work.

[RICEY]

New caliper bolts wouldnt hurt either.. dunno about your car but a lot of Holden caliper bolts are one use only as they are designed to stretch.

[miksta]

I too will be looking at doing the same soon, but i will also be fitting braided lines. any tips for fitting said braided lines or anything i should be aware of other than them being ADR approved.

[Marti]

Also make sure you run a light coat of Copper coat on the top and bottom tabs to stop some of the squeeking

[Halle Terry]

I too will be looking at doing the same soon, but i will also be fitting braided lines. any tips for fitting said braided lines or anything i should be aware of other than them being ADR approved.

I've got TRD braided lines and I've been over the pits twice an they've done nothing about it, so guess it's a little hit and miss if they are ADR approved or not.