rb26det rattle

[DenZel]

is she going to go pop??? driving cuase further damage/risks?

Car in mention is a r32 gtr. now the rattle only comes on and off, not the whole time

car drives fine, boosts fine, idles fine, no other issues - just sometimes when you going through the rev range you will hear the rattle, kind of does sound bottom end...

best place to check it out? who knows their rb26 really well?...and if indeed she needs work, what build would you recommend to go and $$? ( i know oil pump is a must + i know rb26 aint cheap!)

[mys1]

Xspeed

[DenZel]

Xspeed

Might get flamed here as Xspeed is a sponsor or was? i thought they were closing up shop?. But my own personal experience and several of my mates have found xspeed way way overpriced and the service not great either.

[Marti]

Go see Marc at c red

[Sfidz]

Josh @ Galvsport forum sponsor.
Is building a 26 atm if I am not wrong.

[magic1]

The way you have discribed the problem, are you sure it's not loose change in the glove box.


is she going to go pop??? driving cuase further damage/risks?

Car in mention is a r32 gtr. now the rattle only comes on and off, not the whole time

car drives fine, boosts fine, idles fine, no other issues - just sometimes when you going through the rev range you will hear the rattle, kind of does sound bottom end...

best place to check it out? who knows their rb26 really well?...and if indeed she needs work, what build would you recommend to go and $$? ( i know oil pump is a must + i know rb26 aint cheap!)

[DISTRBD]

Sell it and stick to buying show cars

[31-EVO]

Sell it and stick to buying awful autosalon cars
Fixed in all fairness

[DenZel]

The fact the autosalon cars are the minority of my car purchase history shows you nothing about me or my cars so lets leave it at that.

well, its indeed the bottom end so ill be looking at big money either way - be splashing about 10k regardless - so what options should i look into? stroker maybe?

Car is currently at C-RED who are recommending nitto rebuild.

[Turbo2.6L]

Lol $10k stroker build? Thinking of putting in a 355 holden motor are we??

[SimonR32]

Keen to see For Sale thread, may be interested at the right price

[j3rk]

10k... C-Red re-build... Nitto. Pick two.

[DenZel]

I said be spending 10k regardless (thats the min) never said 10k stroker rebuild, though it is something i will look into since im spending big money either way (obviously at a higher cost)

iv heard stories about the nitto oil pump failing before...?

anyone get good prices on the other stroker kits?

[Turbo2.6L]

Just buy a RIPS short engine if $10k isn't your ceiling. Cheap & make awesome power/torque

[c.rusli]

Denzel
sounds like you have done a bottom bearing shell, which connects the Crank and the rods.

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/185939_10151155402490953_112309100_n.jpg

i have similar noise
only on certain RPM it will rattles..

Fixed by dismantle the bottom end,
Machined Crank, new Bearing shell and check the round-ness

hopefully yours is not too bad to save.

you might want to change a new oil pump as well while on the processes.

[DenZel]

hmmm, what did that set you back?

[Kaido]

hmmm, what did that set you back?

1.8L honda engine... 2.6L nissan engine

price would not apply to you

[Marti]

nitto parts are great, id stick with a n1 oil pump or a tomie oil pump, look at high octane racing.com for all your parts needs

[DenZel]

out of interest, what would a a bottom end go for like mine??

[Brockas]

out of interest, what would a a bottom end go for like mine??
You mean a fucked one?

$300, if the block isn't screwed.


Forget the strokers. Stick with a well-built 2.6L and let it rev. If you do everything smart enough you'll get away with it for $10k and have something capable of making a reliable and responsive 600rwhp.

[Lump]

Are you absolutely positive the noise is not just pinging?

[Kaido]

I said be spending 10k regardless (thats the min) never said 10k stroker rebuild, though it is something i will look into since im spending big money either way (obviously at a higher cost)

iv heard stories about the nitto oil pump failing before...?

anyone get good prices on the other stroker kits?

FYI

HKS Step Zero 2.8L Stroker Kit RRP $5,500 does not included shipping
HKS 2.8L Step 2 Full Kit (Pistons, Crankshaft & Connecting Rods) RRP $9,000 does not included shipping

factor in shipping cost and labour... and 10k doesn't get you much. Step Zero is pretty much a street package meant to be used with stock or gt-ss turbo

[DenZel]

C-red have told me its the bottom end

I can get the tomei kit for under 6k landed.

the Rips rb30 package is looking pretty good especially with the conversion rates

pro and cons going rb30?

and anyone know the fees/tax i have to pay on something like this getting into the country?

[Brockas]

C-red have told me its the bottom end

I can get the tomei kit for under 6k landed.

the Rips rb30 package is looking pretty good especially with the conversion rates

pro and cons going rb30?

and anyone know the fees/tax i have to pay on something like this getting into the country?
Word of advice, price EVERYTHING up before buying a stroker kit.

People see rods, pistons and crank and think "oh, the rest should be pretty cheap". NERT.

I spent about $2.5k on my bottom end (pistons and rods), and my build was still over $10k all up, and I already had the N1 block worth $3k.

Will post a list of things you need to consider shortly.

[j3rk]

Denzel, Brockas kindly did a break-down previously in my showcase thread when I though I had popped my motor.
There is also various discussion back and forth between different engines on the previous/following pages that may be of interest.
http://antilag.com/forums/showthread.php?50317-J3rk-s-Purpo-GTR/page6

[DenZel]

c-red are telling me 3k labour just to replace shortblocks (if i bought one already done and kitted)....this right?? seems alot...

i want to try and get a stroker kit done for 12k all up. drive in/drive out. just the shortblock, this do-able or not?

the tomei kit im looking at will cost around 5400 (includes crank, rods,pistons, rings etc) + ill need oil pump/bearings/studs/seals + labour for machining/fitting, shouldnt 12k be achievable?

[Alt_F4]

c-red are telling me 3k labour just to replace shortblocks (if i bought one already done and kitted)....this right?? seems alot...

i want to try and get a stroker kit done for 12k all up. drive in/drive out. just the shortblock, this do-able or not?

the tomei kit im looking at will cost around 5400 (includes crank, rods,pistons, rings etc) + ill need oil pump/bearings/studs/seals + labour for machining/fitting, shouldnt 12k be achievable?
3K engine in and out
6K stroker landed... if your lucky... freight + customs will sting
2k oil pump
1K misc

Still got machining on top of that, and you've still got your old shitty balancer, water pump + turbo, standard sump that your new oil pump will empty quickly... and an untouched ~20 year old head.

12K probably not.

[mxracer]

mm , if this was me ....

$2500 stocker 2jz .. 8-9k to convert it ( it will be stroked to 3lt's then )

then enjoy


haha .. but im just 2jz biased

[BIGS]

Why so fixated on a 'stroker'? Sounds like 12k is your budget. It's at C-red might as well ask them to do what best fits the budget. If you have a bigger budget talk them about what can be achieved.

[DenZel]

Becuase if im going to spend big money on it either way, id rather spend that cpl k more and get it stroked and have a brand new crank.

im weighing up all my options atm, C-Red have been most helpful but seem very nitto biased and dont really want to explore any other brands/options. Im going to pick the car up tomorrow and leave it in garage till i know what i want to do.

as mxracer put, engine swap is also a possibilty or maybe a built rb26 or r34 rb26 engine might pop up for sale if im lucky

or if becomes all too much (for the brain and the wallet) ill just sell it off

[Brockas]

Becuase if im going to spend big money on it either way, id rather spend that cpl k more and get it stroked and have a brand new crank.

To be honest, it sounds like you've already made up your mind.

This is the list for my bottom end, but instead of using the rods and pistons I did, I've put your stroker kit in there:

TOMEI Stroker Kit - $5,400
TOMEI Gasket Kit 1.2mm 87.0mm bore - $323
Nismo N1 Bearings - $253
ARP Rod bolts - $100
ARP Head Studs - $395
ARP Main Studs - $395
TRUST sump extension - $355
JUN High Flow Oil Pump - $950
Crank/Cam seals - $112
Sump Extension Weld - $330
Heater Hoses - $280
Cambelt - $107
Gasket Glue - $65
Block machining + crank balancing - $750

That's $9,815 of MANDATORY parts. Please note, an oil pump is a MANDATORY part. No arguments. Same thing goes for the sump, and the oil restrictor in the head.


Add in the C-Red labour and now you're at $12,815... and you still have stock cams, valve guides that could let go and DESTROY your stroker kit at ANY time, a stock water pump, a standard O5U block which can crack at ANY time (and it will if you jam 87mm pistons in there), standard cam sprokets (no adjustment), standard valve springs, stock-sized valves, and no head porting.


If you try to build a stroker on a $12k budget, you're going to have to cut corners left right and centre, and you'll be back on here in 2 months time asking us why this new motor failed.


Seriously, it's not worth the extra money just so you can tell people it's a 2.8L... especially when it'll make disappointing HP figures because you've left the head standard (where the real power in an RB motor is made).

[Joe]

Heads are where pretty much all the power gains come from, bottom end is strengthened simply to hold all the extra power thats being made. Thats the rule of thumb with any motor.

People who build bottom ends and leave stock heads are just wasting their money. You are better off balancing your budget across the whole motor and going with a cohesive package, even it means making a reliable 500rwhp instead of 600rwhp, and not being able to brag that you have a 2.8 litre.

[markdett]

Heads are where pretty much all the power gains come from, bottom end is strengthened simply to hold all the extra power thats being made. Thats the rule of thumb with any motor.

People who build bottom ends and leave stock heads are just wasting their money. You are better off balancing your budget across the whole motor and going with a cohesive package, even it means making a reliable 500rwhp instead of 600rwhp, and not being able to brag that you have a 2.8 litre.
Couldn't agree more.....

"Head gasket down is just a pump, head gasket up
Is where all the power is made"

[Skitzo]

LOL. RB26 FTW!

[Lump]

"Head gasket down is just a pump"
not without a head its not

[markdett]

not without a head its not
YES

[Brockas]

LOL. RB26 FTW!

LOL @ a 1J owner piping up... would love to see a 1JZ make 600rwhp with a 4,500rpm powerband without being built!

For that matter, I'd love to see a 2JZ (the king of all engines) do those figures.

[Turbo2.6L]

26's are junk
2J's are worse

1J's are

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll125/SophiaMaria023/Tumblr/LOLOLOL.gif

[Alt_F4]

For that matter, I'd love to see a 2JZ (the king of all engines) do those figures.
Don't we have a couple of members on here with 2JZs making that power or more?











Oh wait they popped their engines

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/7/78/Trollface.svg/200px-Trollface.svg.png

[Skitzo]

LOL @ a 1J owner piping up... would love to see a 1JZ make 600rwhp with a 4,500rpm powerband without being built!

For that matter, I'd love to see a 2JZ (the king of all engines) do those figures.

Nigger, I'm a 5J owner.

Won't debate which makes more power, cause general rule is the RB will trump the JZ. But reliability is a key. JZ's get thrashed reliably in Amurrica and Japan.

Back on thread topic, which is another RB26 going rattle rattle

[magic1]

reliability is overrated and quite boring

[Brockas]

Don't we have a couple of members on here with 2JZs making that power or more?
Regardless of it popping, Jamie / Paul's old Supra made about 600rwhp... with a T51R SPL... 26's make those figures with a T04Z; a substantially smaller turbo.
In general JZ's seem to need a substantially bigger turbo to make the same power as a 26, and have a smaller powerband.


Anyway, back on topic I guess...

[LostInTheWoods]

Man, you are forgetting the labour involved in building an engine properly. I spend 8-10 hours prepping my block alone. That would be 1k+ at workshop rates just for that. An engine may only have about 20 bolts to do up inside, but measuring, checking, re-measuring, cleaning, painting etc takes forever. Anyone can slap together a wheezer engine that never makes power. Like Brockas said, you can spend 1.5-2.5k on rods and pistons and that would be a 10k build. Spend 5-8 on the same parts and you are looking at 15-20k. How many $$ per hp is that - spend 2k on the head instead.

$3k to pull an engine in and out and refit head manifolds, turbo's etc seems well fair. That is only about 25-27 hours labour. There will still be some parts costs in this as well on top of the 3k.

[MrSparkle]

If a machine shop tried to charge me 1k to prep a block I would be getting out the shotgun.

[j3rk]

Back on topic, strokers have the wank factor... which would IMO make a car easier to sell long term.

Not saying its the right option as when I did the maths strokers are +50% more expensive for 500rpm earlier boost (but minus 500rpm up top!).
If your set on a stroker though, Powertune do a trade do a 2.8 Brian Crower cheap, ready to go. Remember that as Brockas said there's a fair bit more to an engine ;)
http://powertune.com.au/products/byengine/rb26/engine-packages/2-8l-stroker-short-block.html

[Kaido]

What turbo are you running?

[markdett]

What turbo are you running?
And what are your power goals?

[2jzlux]

LOL @ a 1J owner piping up... would love to see a 1JZ make 600rwhp with a 4,500rpm powerband without being built!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=94h-dWFuuw8&list=UUwRjLPZFJHTi84nHOgP0Tag&index=9&feature=plcp.

here you go

[Kaido]

here you go


that speedo looks real accuracy just about as accuracy as the rpm

[DenZel]

engine is pretty much standard with basic bolt ons as far as i know, this being my first gtr

Main reason i got it, is becuase its a very tidy example (only a few imperfections on whole car really) + has bbs wheels, brembo brakes and r34 gtr seats which are all worth decent coin.

was also looking at other packages as jerk mentioned -
http://powertune.com.au/products/byengine/rb26/engine-packages.html
and
http://www.lewisengines.com.au/category9_1.htm

then ofcourse rips come in at good value to with exchange rate.

but then i would still need to spend another 10k on the top end to make use of the bottom end.

[Kaido]

engine is pretty much standard with basic bolt ons as far as i know, this being my first gtr

Main reason i got it, is becuase its a very tidy example (only a few imperfections on whole car really) + has bbs wheels, brembo brakes and r34 gtr seats which are all worth decent coin.

was also looking at other packages as jerk mentioned -
http://powertune.com.au/products/byengine/rb26/engine-packages.html
and
http://www.lewisengines.com.au/category9_1.htm

then ofcourse rips come in at good value to with exchange rate.

but then i would still need to spend another 10k on the top end to make use of the bottom end.

so still std turbos?

[markdett]

here you go

Comparing a modified 1J with a "no doubt" standard r35?...........

ok

[2jzlux]

Not comparing at all Brockas asked for an example of a 1jz with 600rwhp and that is the video of a 1jz that has 601rwhp.

It just happened to be chopping a r35 at the time thats all.

Why so sad?

[markdett]

Not comparing at all Brockas asked for an example of a 1jz with 600rwhp and that is the video of a 1jz that has 601rwhp.

It just happened to be chopping a r35 at the time thats all.

Why so sad?

Not sad, Just thought you where trying to compare the two. Sorry dewd

Waits for RB V's JZ war.

[j3rk]

If you haven't already considered it Denzel, be aware of the cost blow out.

Eg. If you build an engine you'll need bigger turbo/s to make power -> 2k min
If you buy a bigger turbo/s you'll need fuel -> 2k min
With fuel comes the need for an ecu -> 2k
Then you'll need a tune -> 1k

Just Incase you haven't thought of it all mate.

[Fukushima]

what sort of driveline upgrades would be needed?

surely a 2.8 or 3.0L is going to make mince meat of the clutch, if not the box

[Lonewolf]

what sort of driveline upgrades would be needed?

surely a 2.8 or 3.0L is going to make mince meat of the clutch, if not the box

not to mention fuel pump, injectors, ecu, tuning etc.
Costs for the ancillaries can blow things out bigtime.

I guess you could do the bottom end and then build up a 2nd top end seperately, you do pay for some labour twice but dont -need- to do it all at once.
At least you should have a reliable motor rather than guessing how long it will last.

[DenZel]

yeh, thats why in previous post i mentioned id still have to spend another 10k after doing the bottom end.

Most likely will try to source another engine and chuck it in, or just sell it as is.

Drove it back from c-red today (never going over 3000rpm) so its parked up in garage until i know what i want to do with it. Next GTR i will def be buying one already built thats for sure. Thanks for all the advice peeps, but with what i want to do with the car and what id have to spend on it to get there, id rather just go a little more and get a r34 gtr.

[mxracer]

must admit , it looks pretty nice for a 32, bet j-ash will love to buy your seats !

if i didnt have my chaser , id love to buy a spun bearing gtr , always wanted a project like that.

dnt lose hope , can smash another replacment motor in . but have to search high n low for a good one , as its a very very common issue with rb's

[DenZel]

yeh, im still waying up my options,

A flood of pms about this - here are the pictures for people asking and/or curious - For me to let it go at this point it what have to be a very good offer or i would look into swaps, car does present very well. (washed down in most of the pictures to take the dust off from workshop) Still have the original key too which is pretty cool. (car has r34 gtr seats, n1 front bumper, brembo brakes, bilstein coilovers, aftermarket exhuast, greddy front mount kit and greddy alloy radiator, pod filters, bbs wheels, heavy duty clutch etc etc)

http://imageshack.us/g/43/30082012797.jpg/

[c.rusli]

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Skyline-R32-GT-R-RB26DETT-Engine-w-Loom-ECU-/320972054163?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4abb6cde93

buy that, swapped the engine your self most likely its a weekend job with couple of mates.
and a sell your current engine.

[Brockas]

Buying one built is definitely the way to go, so long as it's been built properly and has proven results. Don't buy one that has just been slapped together for a quick sale.


Not comparing at all Brockas asked for an example of a 1jz with 600rwhp and that is the video of a 1jz that has 601rwhp.

would love to see a 1JZ make 600rwhp with a 4,500rpm powerband without being built!
Did you ignore what I said regarding the 4,500rpm powerband? That thing is running a Precision Turbo PT6765...

[2jzlux]

Did you ignore what I said regarding the 4,500rpm powerband?



Yes i did.
How fucking cool would it be to rock up in a cressida and chop 35gtr's then drive home again, i would give no fuck for powerband.

[Alt_F4]

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Skyline-R32-GT-R-RB26DETT-Engine-w-Loom-ECU-/320972054163?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4abb6cde93

buy that, swapped the engine your self most likely its a weekend job with couple of mates.
and a sell your current engine.
Wait til it pops 50km later, rinse and repeat!

[1JZVL]

Yes i did.
How fucking cool would it be to rock up in a cressida and chop 35gtr's then drive home again, i would give no fuck for powerband.

What's the limiter on that anyways?

hmm

[markdett]

Yes i did.
How fucking cool would it be to rock up in a cressida and chop 35gtr's then drive home again, i would give no fuck for powerband.
601hp vs about 400-450hp

[j3rk]

Ignoring that the Gtr was built to go in a straight line... Or not.

[Riggs]

Its and age old saying that is repeated 10000000 times.

Cheap. Fast. Reliable.

Pick 2.

My faildak engine is nudging $15K for just the long block without anything on it and I am still yet to pay the bill for final assembly. And I already had a brand new stroker kit for it that's not included in that cost.

Do it once, do it right.

Are you going to do anything to the heads? Or just give them a clean up and slap them on a forged block? If you are that's just dumb.

[mxracer]

What's the limiter on that anyways?

hmm

thats cressy has a stock 1jz bott end , 272 or 280 cams , i think a flowed head , precision pt67 turbo , makes 600 on e85 29psi and revs to 9000rpm , its done 10.15 @ 134mph 1.496 60 foot, hard to tell boost response cause it has a 4k stall , so would come on almost instant.

its pretty unfair to make this guy's thread a rb vs jz thread , we can always make a new thread for that ;)

but yea , just proves that a crappy old 1jz block with the correct combo can take a flogging . and best yet IF it did let go its cheap and common to replace ( eg 1jz go for $200 - $1500 ) rather than like rb26 which are 3-4k just for a long motor ??

[Turbo2.6L]

RB's are more expensive as they are superior.

[Skitzo]

LOL. Simple economics.

High Demand second hand items attract a higher price. This is because it is a sellers market.
Low demand items attract a lower price.

RB26 costs more because they are in higher demand. They are in higher demand because they break, a lot. pingpingpingpings need to replace them, so the seller drives the price up, because he knows it will eventually sell for the higher price. JZ is cheap, because they don't break, meaning no one really needs to buy them, and they end up just sitting in people's garages unless they flog them off cheap.

[Brockas]

LOL logic fail...


RB26 costs more because they are in higher demand. They are in higher demand because they are the best engine.

*fixed.


People wouldn't buy them if they were shit! They'd replace them with something different if they broke... just like people replace CA18's with SR20's etc.

[Daisy]

toyota parts are cheap as the owners are tighter than a ducks arse.

having been on just about every toyota forum, just about all build threads are with second hand/china jew parts which is why hardly any make decent power.

[JME]

pingpingpingpings arguing over japanese japanese redmotors.

[Skitzo]

toyota parts are cheap as the owners are tighter than a ducks arse.

having been on just about every toyota forum, just about all build threads are with second hand/china jew parts which is why hardly any make decent power.

HAHAHAHAAHHAHAHAHAAH

[j3rk]

You just love JZ's too much MxRacer.
1JZ is comparable to the RB25 not the 26. Both are cheap, shitters that make sub 600hp after work and lots of boost.

2JZ is a better comparison for the 26, costs are actually close for engines (R34 GTR RB26 vs. VVTI 2JZ, R32 GTR 26 vs. Shitter Aristo 2JZ).
Your view is just skewed as your able to get them cheap Marty! Fuck yo thread topic!

[Turbo2.6L]

1J's & 2J's don't break because they aren't pushed. 500rwhp on a built 2J is aids, 600whp on a stock RB is the norm :p

[volt_bite]

It's far more logical for an item to be expensive due to its popularity and therefore increase in demand, rather then because its shit and in high demand for replacements. If the RBs kept breaking, no one would buy them any more or they would seek better alternative engines.

[JBAE]

Its and age old saying that is repeated 10000000 times.

Cheap. Fast. Reliable.

Pick 2.

My faildak engine is nudging $15K for just the long block without anything on it and I am still yet to pay the bill for final assembly. And I already had a brand new stroker kit for it that's not included in that cost.

Do it once, do it right.

Are you going to do anything to the heads? Or just give them a clean up and slap them on a forged block? If you are that's just dumb.

Cannot wait until this starts Dakking :) after fuck all use :P

[2jzlux]

Ignoring that the Gtr was built to go in a straight line... Or not.

The Cressida was built for your nanna to drive to the shops once in a while
So what is your point?

[magic1]

Its and age old saying that is repeated 10000000 times.

Cheap. Fast. Reliable.

Pick 2.

My faildak engine is nudging $15K for just the long block without anything on it and I am still yet to pay the bill for final assembly. And I already had a brand new stroker kit for it that's not included in that cost.

Do it once, do it right.

Are you going to do anything to the heads? Or just give them a clean up and slap them on a forged block? If you are that's just dumb.

does that factor in inflation and storage for leaving it in the workshop built for 6 months?

[j3rk]

The Cressida was built to for your manna to drive to the shops once in a while
So what is your point?
Who ever has a point on Antilag?

[S133LTR]

Anyone who really thinks all four of the motors being discussed aren't all capable well designed engines (for their era) may as well go stand on the side of the snake pit and abuse the rice burners with the rest of the toothless rocko residents.

[Riggs]

does that factor in inflation and storage for leaving it in the workshop built for 6 months?

Kek, no.


Cannot wait until this starts Dakking :) after fuck all use :P

Dakking is fine, if it is dokking I'll run over your four wheeled pizza oven with it.

[markdett]

The Cressida was built to for your manna to drive to the shops once in a while
So what is your point? Nissan's main focus on the r35 was handling/aerodynamics rather then outright engine power.

Laptimes not 1/4 times?

[mxracer]

You just love JZ's too much MxRacer.
1JZ is comparable to the RB25 not the 26. Both are cheap, shitters that make sub 600hp after work and lots of boost.

2JZ is a better comparison for the 26, costs are actually close for engines (R34 GTR RB26 vs. VVTI 2JZ, R32 GTR 26 vs. Shitter Aristo 2JZ).
Your view is just skewed as your able to get them cheap Marty! Fuck yo thread topic!

id love to see an rb cut for under 3k .. aristo non vvti 2jz's are 2500-3k . vvti 2jz aristo , 3000-3500 .
unsure what r32/r33/r34 cuts are worth but i think they 4k plus ??? and i cant get anything any cheaper than the rest of us .. ( if your chasing any half cut , best to email mayhem as if i buy anything i just pay the same retail price as anyone else does )

plenty of pushed JZ's making 500-600 unopened .. yes they prob can do with cams up near those figures ..
but rb's are edgey on the 500 plus range.

and most ppl dont bother with engine conversion / cross breeding .. too much ..( is spose due to effort, lic n rego )

i reckon a barra 4L would be even better option( ive even measured one up compared to 2jz , and they almost the same diamensions ) , or even better turbo'd LSv8 .. cubes with boost nom nom nonm

[JBAE]

LOL reciprocating piston faggots!

[Alt_F4]

Please tell me more about your powerhouse cressidas and how awesome they are
/willywonkameme

[ceaz]

Seen this on gumtree

How much do you want for it?

[Turbo2.6L]

I have $3k spare

[RH8 GTR]

And if you do want to swap, what with?

[DenZel]

swap of anything of interest

had a shitload of interest since popping it up, best offers have been upto 11.5 so far.

thanks

[Brockas]

How much stamp duty do you end up paying annually?

[DenZel]

Well this year iv been through a jzz30 soarer (purchased that in 2011 though sold in 2012) along with a jza80 supra with a 35r which was also purchased late last year but carried through to this year.

MY 2012 purcahses have been:
2 r34 skylines (1 with 300rwhp one with near 400rwhp) s13 silvia autech (sr20det and manual swap) bmw 328i e36 and now have the gtr. A pretty mild year by my standards.

but to answer your question, i guess anywhere upto the 1k mark.

[Faz]

Hard topic considering i own both gtr and jz cressy, 26's are sick. Gtrs themselves i have a different opinion on.