Engine dramas

[cactus]

I've got a heap of issues with my car, and hoping someone might be able to shed some light:

Basically, the car destroyed main bearings. Upon closer inspection, 4 pistons were on their way out (detonation) and the head gasket was cactus.

It had a decent rebuild, including new crank, bearings, head gasket and pistons.

Car was good (during run in stage) until yesterday when it went on the dyno. Turbo seized - bearings collapsed. This is the second turbo that has done this, with the current one only being in the car for less than twelve months. There is plenty of oil/water supply, so I'm stuffed as to what has gone wrong. My first question is - if I were to remove the oil restrictor (for the new turbo/cartridge), would there be too much oil supply and could this cause damage to the turbo?

Secondly, some may remember I was talking about the car spitting coolant. It definitely had a head gasket issue, so with the new rebuild I put in a 1.3mm cometic head gasket (previous was perma-seal R spec or something). Unfortunately, the car is still pushing a small amount of coolant into over flow, and is not recovering when engine cools. I am using Toyota (red) coolant. Is it possible that this coolant is maybe too thick for the RB cooling system/engine?

Third question - is anyone here able to source GT/X 35R core?

Any ideas are appreciated! I'm really not having any luck and it is costing me a fortune!

[Tocchi]

pull everything done.
fuel system, lines, turbo setup, engine etc.

so many people blow motors etc, and dont research into why it happened, they just assume.
doing the "hard work" now, will save you more drama in the future :)

[Kickit]

bin the block. don't use it if its blow a motor. thats what a few of the top super sedan drives do. they reckon they're pretty much junk after its blown.

[-Luke-]

these guys

http://www.cmssydney.com.au/

Have 4 x gtx3582r's left at a sale price of $1560

[Lump]

first question, bb turbos need much less oil feed than pb turbos - so if its bb leave the restrictor in.

second question, no the viscosity of the red coolant will be fine

[Oversteer]

Was motor cleaned well enough after bearing failure(crap in oil galleries etc), maybe run an inline filter on the turbo feed. Not running the restricter on the oil feed of the turbo may result in the seal getting overloaded/oil seal failure.

Is your oil pressure all good ?

Sounds like your last failure was a direct resuilt of det, most likely going lean, you need to hunt down that issue.

What fuel pumps are you running ? get your injectors cleaned/flowed and maybe get a fuel pressure gauge so in future you can monitor .. hooked up to your ecu and datalogged would be good(might as well add a wideband to that also !)

What did it do on the dyno apart from shit turbo ?

[cactus]

Yeah Tocchi - everything was stripped apart, checked clean etc. Also had block/head checked and all came up good.

Ball-bearing unti, so guess will need to stick with restrictor. But as someone has suggested, might look at adding a filter on the feed line.

Motor was cleaned thoroughly ... it was completely stripped and well cleaned.

Oil pressure is good, once up to running temp, on idle there is about 30psi going up to 60ish psi when cruising (say up to about 4500 rpm).

Have added fuel pressure gauage etc. since and injectors have been cleaned, new fuel pump + filters etc.

Went 345rwhp @ 10psi with no timing, so was strong. But only issue it had on dyno was the turbo shitting itself lol.

[TJ]

345 through your auto on 10psi.... thats pretty high.

Its also detonated a motor which has probably spewed metal shaving through the turbo which has killed it too.

I hate suggesting this but Id be looking at tune.

[Scaf]

Could the turbo/feedline still have had metal through it from when the motor blew?
Also what size is your drain line and does it run fairly vertical back to the sump? Maybe oil not getting out of the turbo fast enough? Not sure if that would cause the bearings to fail, just throwing out ideas.

[magic1]

do you have an oil cooler?

[esky]

did you change the oil cooler after motor pop?

[cactus]

Not an aftermarket oil cooler ... just the standard one where oil filter sits. Something I should maybe look at getting, although engine oil temps have always been pretty stable.

Nah Matty, when I pulled motor apart, everything was stripped and washed thoroughly to avoid this exact problem :(

[esky]

Oil coolers tend to hold metal particles from engine death. build new motor old junk metal gets pushed back in....more dramas.

I got told if you bust an engine bin everything oil related, coolers, filters & lines.

[Turbo2.6L]

No filter on feed line is 99.9% cause of turbo failure, especially after an engine failure/rebuild/run-in.
Who is doing all the machining & assembly for you? Also, what was cause of det in first tune... Was it running lean in the tune, or was it a mech failure that resulted in lean mixtures??

[Yakky Bear]

pulling the restrictor may cause it to start smoking from too much oil going through the turbo. May also cause a carbon build up inside the core, Leave the restrictor in.

[cactus]

Engine builder is pretty confident based on the detonation/damage to pistons etc. that the damage was tune related (timing) and not a failure elsewhere - timing was also the cause of the head gasket going originally.

Will definitely be fitting a filter to the oil feed line next time around. Might also look at getting an oil cooler. I am very confident that there was little shavings left in the motor, as it was thoroughly washed/cleaned - but I'm obviously wrong since the turbo has shat itself!

[Turbo2.6L]

Was everything/anything that touches oil cleaned/inspected thoroughly though, or just block? Cooler, lines, fittings etc can all trap small shavings until a later date, then BANG!

[cactus]

Yeah ... evertyhing was pulled off and properly washed. The reason I did this is my last turbo seized because a bit of shit got caught in the feed line, and I didnt want a repeat :( But I think you're on the money, something must have gone through the turbo and its only showed up on the dyno when it got pushed a little harder.

[Turbo2.6L]

Run-in could've also contributed some shavings & no filter on turbo feed line means no prevention. Engine oil filter may not have caught everything.

[Oversteer]

Cut your oil filter open(with tin snips, no grinder) and lay the paper out and see whats in there....

When it comes to oil coolers and bearing failure you can not clean them.... you must bin as there is no way you can flush it in all the nooks and crannys and get every last bit out.... and only use high quality filters !

Maybe a stupid question, but do you have a surge tank ?

[cplagz]

How big is your turbo drain pipe? and where does it drain to? You might have enough flow to the turbo but if it's not getting away with will still cause backpressure and can blow the cartridge seals out.

[Scaf]

That would cause it to blow smoke yes?

[cplagz]

That would cause it to blow smoke yes?

You would assume so yes.

Out of interest - do you have any flex pipe in your dump? and if not, does it scrape/hit the ground... or did it cop any hard knocks? It can cause the bearings to shift and bust the plastic cages apart ... just ask magic1 how he knows this.

[Fukushima]

block is cactus

[cactus]

Yeah car has big fuel set-up including surge tank, so no worries with fuel pressure (and gauge is showing plenty).

The turbo drain pipe is the same as the fitting that comes out of turbo, so I think about 10mm, and then it opens up to 16mm heat-pipe and straight into the block - so I dont think there would be an issue there. Still, I might start the car when I get home, and just pull the drain pipe and see what is coming through (and also do it with the water lines).

Dump pipe sometimes scrapes, but very minimal as I take all 'risky' curbs/bumps slowly.

Will cut the oil filter soon and let you know what I find.

[cplagz]

If you have a decent sized magnet stick it to the filter before removing it and it should hold onto/attract a lot of particles if there are any.