View Full Version : GQ Patrols, what to look out for when buying one?

18-10-2013, 07:31 AM
Hey guys,

Posting on behalf of a mate who's looking at buying a GQ Patrol.

He has only just told me about it so I don't have a heap of details.

92 model
Petrol on LPG

Is there any particular weak points in the older (from my understanding ) GQs?

Petrol engine a pos etc?

Mates main concern is the ks which he considers high, but for a 92 model it seems alright to me.

Any help would be appreciated.


18-10-2013, 07:54 AM
if its on lpg make sure its been tuned right, they are known to crack the head, its a bonus if its had a head and gasket fitted to match the gas, common things like rust in the roof, gear boxes and diffs are near on bullet proof. make sure it has good oil pressure while driving.

I have a petrol gas gq, only problem iv had with it was the gas, i just had it all redone and had the choke taken off and it runs like a dream.460000kms on the motor

18-10-2013, 07:56 AM
The petrol engines are great when not on gas, ticking timebomb for a head to go when on gas (i've already changed mine and gas is about to go)

Bought mine at 250k, done 290k now, wouldn't be too worried about 270k, just factor in a head maybe

Check rust around back windows and in the chassis, leaking diffs/transfer etc

18-10-2013, 08:24 AM
Cheers guys! Will be sure to ask if it's had a new head/gasket installed as well as all the usual used car checks, leaks etc. :)

18-10-2013, 09:20 AM
mine is dual fuel so i run on both

18-10-2013, 09:47 AM
Always check chassis alignment unless you can verify use/history of previous owner(s).

18-10-2013, 09:52 AM
Definitely check for common rust spots such as the chassis etc. Driver side and passenger foot wells are also quite prone to rusting out.

18-10-2013, 12:31 PM
watch out for UNIT or JETPILOT stickers

18-10-2013, 04:17 PM
left engine mount is the thrust engine mount, usually is fatigued over time, will notice it more if taken offroad and bounced around

Usual rust around the rear windows

check friction point of clutch, if its towards the top, clutch may not have much life left, be aware as it is a shit job with the big manual box.


18-10-2013, 04:29 PM
watch out for UNIT or JETPILOT stickers

Since I currently own two commodores, I'm well experienced with sniffing these sorts of cars out ;)

Passage GT
18-10-2013, 08:12 PM
check for rust in the wheel arches too, look around where the rear mud flaps mount.
they're actually a great engine, same bottom end as the td42 basically and last almost as long if looked after, great low down torque and will rev hard in the sand etc, i loved mine.
by revving hard i mean 6000rpm haha.
valve savers etc are a good idea for when on gas.
honestly a great 4x4 to own, almost unbreakable, i beat the shit out of mine for 6 years and never broke anything major on it, no cv's, diff's anything mechanical, just the usual perishables, alternator, ac compressor (mud fucked it) etc.

19-10-2013, 03:29 AM
check chassis for cracks. and behind the sills they're known for rusting. (pingpingpingpings cant wash beach sand off and they rust like a pingpingpingping).
swivel hubs leaking.

31-10-2013, 12:43 PM
hey guys

i am currently on the hunt for a patrol, predominately gq due to my budget.

i have seen one that falls well within it but in the advert it states the rear slide windows are rusted.

is this something that should disqualify it immediately or provided it is relatively minor is it ok?

I am not too sure what the go is for rust - is it generally fixable if minimal or once it starts it spreads like cancer?


31-10-2013, 01:21 PM
I would keep clear of one with the windows gone, the rails is not so bad

31-10-2013, 01:57 PM
rust is a pingpingpingping

31-10-2013, 02:05 PM
sicka: by rails i meant rails above the windows not the chassis rails to

31-10-2013, 04:39 PM
if the rust isnt too bad you should be ok, its easy to pull the sliding windows out to have a look and then once the rust is fixed chuck a solid rear window from a dx in there.

Passage GT
31-10-2013, 09:47 PM
ford maverick is pretty much the exact same car and all had solid rear windows too
will help if your chasing some up at wreckers etc

01-11-2013, 08:22 AM
Brother in law is selling his 93 gq at the moment. Body wise it is pretty rough around the edges with some paint missing and abit of surface rust but nothing some TLC wouldnt fix by a dedicated person.. But Mechanically and Suspension wise etc it is an excellent bit of equipment And a bloody reliable tourer.. We did 11000kms last year including the Gibb River Road, Tanami Track, Great Central road and it didnt miss a beat. Only selling because my sister put the hard word on him and wants something newer for the kids.. He is pretty negotiable on price aswell.


COuple of better pics


01-11-2013, 08:59 AM
4.2 diesel has held its value well , I was nearly tempted to sell mine for a new bus with better fuel economy but decided to keep it .

01-11-2013, 01:27 PM
thanks blokes

will check it out and see... if its listed in the add i would assume there would at least be a moderate amount of rust there.
would probably prefer to not have the hassle though i guess but the price had me interested.

cheers fozzy, seems fairly cheap compared to others. I am hunting for the turbo TD42 though and something in a little better general condition.
LOL at the minature pics in the add.

some of the prices i have seen for the cruisers and patrols are a little staggering and vary wildly.

I have seen the odd 08 or around then cruisers for ~$20k compared to $35k+ elsewhere but they are ex miners and from what i have read they get well abused and should be avoided..

how do the toyo V8 turbo diesels compare to the turbo TD42's? are they pretty much comparative?


01-11-2013, 01:31 PM
The one I posted Sold today first bloke that looked at it.

02-12-2013, 01:55 PM
Another tip always make sure you go on a test drive at 100kmph in any old 4B, check for "death wobbles" as there as so many linkages and joint that can flog out and give you the sh*ts tryna chase them to get rid of the wobbles!

Also if it's manual, get on/off the gas hard, check for worn bushes, or get under it with a crowbar and lever the bushes to see if they're busted. If it's rear bushes it'll sound like a heap of slack in the diff, but it's the whole thing rotating as u get on/off the gas. Full bushes throughout is about $1500 to replace, if it's only a cheap bus that a fair chunk of cash. Unless u have an 8t press some of them are a bugger to get out (front radius arms mostly)

Do yourself a favour and try to splash out for a TD42 with a turbo bolted to the side of it, i've had two of them, they hold value really well and the turbo makes the world of difference, still more economical than a Petrol and probly quicker than any carby Petrol aswell.

ppl have covered most of the other issues. Front wheel bearings, check those if you can, they're cheap to replace but you can use that to negotiate as they're probly got play in them.

Yakky Bear
02-12-2013, 02:27 PM
Unit stickers and flat brim hats.